Cheers!

Greetings everyone!  I'm back from my weekend in Liverpool, had such an amazing time, and am excited to tell you all about it!

Friday morning I woke up and went through my normal morning routine, getting the girls up and ready and bringing them to school.  Then I packed my stuff, got ready, and took a taxi down to the airport.  My flight left Naples at about 1pm.  I flew with EasyJet, which I definitely recommend not only for their extremely cheap prices but I really enjoyed the flight.  It was comfortable, they offer good food, the staff is so nice, and since the company is fairly new the plane was so nice!  It was great to see the view of Naples from up above...we also flew over the Swiss Alps which was absolutely amazing to see!  We landed in Liverpool at about 4:00 local time.  I cashed in my euro for pounds and hopped in a cab...I couldn't help but laugh because the cabs looked so funny and of course the driver was on the 'wrong side!'.  My driver was great!  I wish I could have hired him as a tour guide all weekend!  He was telling me all about Liverpool and where to go and what to do and was giving me some great tips.  We arrived at the hostel in about 20 minutes, and I was super nervous to see it.  This was my first time ever staying in a hostel and my first independent trip so I was very anxious!  Anyways, the hostel Nightingale Lodge was really great.  I felt like I was in the dorms again, or in a boarding house.  The staff was so helpful too!  I stayed in a 4-bed all-girl room.  After getting settled in I decided to head out to the center of Liverpool to have a look around and have some dinner!  Luckily it wasn't raining, as the forecast had called for rain all weekend.  Although it was cold, it definitely wasn't as cold as I was expecting.  I made it down into the city center in about 15 minutes and was pleasantly surprised with what I saw.  I'm not sure exactly what I was expecting from Liverpool, but what I got was a small, bustling city, full of life and amazing architecture, extremely modern and very cultivated.  I quickly learned that Liverpool was named 'Europe's City of Culture' in 2008, and I could definitely see why!  I was extremely impressed from the start.  So I walked around the center and explored a bit, and then I headed over to the Albert Dock where I had dinner at a restaurant called What's Cooking.  I ordered the fish 'n chips of course, as well as a Cain's Dragon Heart beer.  Liverpool is home to the Cain's brewery so I just had to try a local beer...this one was a brown ale with 5% ABV and was Liverpool's official beer in 2008.  It was warm, delicious, smooth, and kind of spicy - perfect for a cold winter evening!  After my yummy dinner I walked around the center some more, and checked out Liverpool ONE - an amazing shopping center with high-street stores, restaurants, a big cinema, parks, and a ferris wheel.  If I could only shop in one place for the rest of my life it would definitely be Liverpool ONE!  It was only about 8pm but I was getting pretty exhausted from traveling and walking and even from the one-hour time difference.  So I headed back to my hostel to relax, and read literally about 1/2 of my new book!  (Life of Pi - read it!).

When I woke up the next morning there were 2 other girls sleeping in the room.  They had come in while I was asleep; I faintly remember hearing them come in.  I got up pretty early because I wanted to make sure I had the full day to do everything I wanted to do.  I got dressed then went downstairs for the hostel's free breakfast - it was decent: cereal, milk, toast, jelly, butter, coffee, juice.  Can't beat that for being free!  I headed out at about 9am and started walking towards the city center.  It was pretty chilly and very overcast but luckily was not raining.  I had my umbrella with me just in case!  I walked through the center and on towards Albert Dock, where I was first in line for The Beatles Story!  (Actually, I was the only one in line, but don't tell anybody I told you!).  The Beatles Story was so amazing!  Anyone who knows me, knows I love the Beatles!  It was really great to learn all about the guys and about their early days and inspirations.  Moving through each room was like moving through time...and everything was set on motion-sensors, so I would enter a room and it would be dark and quiet, then all of a sudden all the lights would turn on and music would start blaring!  The museum featured so many great things: replicas of the Cavern Club and of Abbey Road Studios, the US reception of the Beatles, the Yellow Submarine, Strawberry Fields, Sgt. Pepper's, and so much more!  At the very end of the museum, everything is decorated in white and 'Imagine' is playing and it shows a lot of world peace stuff, and I have to admit I got a little emotional!  When I left the museum it was raining (darn!) so I thought it would be a good idea to get on the City Sightseeing Tour Bus.  The bus stopped very close to the Beatles museum, so I hopped on and bought a ticket.  I was able to ride on the top even though it was raining because the top was 1/2-covered.  With the bus I was able to see the rest of the sites in Liverpool while staying dry and not getting too tired, and was able to get off and back on whenever I wanted.  Specifically, I hopped off at the famous Mathew Street, which is the heart of the 'Cavern Quarter'.  Here is the Hard Day's Night Hotel, the Cavern Pub, the Cavern Club, a famous John Lennon statue, and the Cavern wall-of-fame.  I immediately went into the Cavern Club, which was through a narrow door and down several flights of stairs.  It was such a great pub!  I had to pinch myself to make sure I was really there!  Not only had the Beatles played there, but also Elton John, The Who, The Rolling Stones, and tons more.  And I remembered a scene from the beginning of 'Across the Universe' (one of my favorite movies) was filmed there.  I wanted to stay for a pint but had to get back on the bus.  When I was back on the street, there was a guy standing out there playing guitar.  He asked where I was from, and after I told him North Carolina, he played 'Heads Carolina, Tails California' by JoDee Messina for me!  It was really great.  I then headed back to the bus, which I was going to ride around to Liverpool ONE so I could get some lunch.  I ate at YO!Sushi, which is a Japanese-style 'katien' sushi bar that delivers food to customers on a conveyor belt.  Basically the restaurant was shaped like a square, with an open kitchen in the very middle, and a bar with stools bordering the kitchen.  As the sushi chefs prepared dishes, they would place them on the conveyor belt, which was moving slowly around the bar.  You could take any dish you like, and at they end they give you your bill based on how many plates you have and their colors (i.e., blue plates were 1.50, green plates were 2.50, etc.)  It was delicious and so much fun!  After lunch I walked around Liverpool ONE in the mood for some serious shopping but was on way too much of a budget to buy anything.  Urban Outfitters, H&M, TopShop, and Cult were calling my name but all I could do was window-shop and admire all the other girls with their bags upon bags of new clothes.  By this time it was raining pretty heavily and water soaked straight through my thin boots.  I decided to get back on the sightseeing bus to see the rest of the city.  I got to see many more famous sites, including the Queensway Tunnel, the World Museum Liverpool, the National Library, the Town Hall, Chinatown, the Three Graces, both cathedrals, the famous Adelphi hotel, and more.  I got off the sightseeing bus at the stop nearest my hostel to discover even more pouring down rain.  Despite an umbrella and jacket, I was soaked to the bone!  I got back to the hostel, dried off, warmed up, changed, and relaxed for a bit.  After a while the rain stopped and I felt a bit re-charged, so I walked down to the city center again.  The crisp night air after a day of rain made everything sparkle, and I admired the lights of the ferris wheel as it was going around.  I have to admit I was a little lonely at that point.  I probably had only spoken 10 words in the last 24 hours, and was doing everything by myself, while everyone around me was with their families and friends and loved ones.  Couples kissing in front of the ferris wheel, the whole nine yards.  I was having an amazing time but it would have been nice to have someone to share this with!  I ate dinner at the Gourmet Burger Kitchen.  I drank a Beck's and ate an avocado-bacon burger...delish!  After dinner I walked around window-shopping in Liverpool ONE a bit more, but at 7pm everything started closing up.  I wasn't really ready to go back to the hostel, but since I was finished with dinner, short on cash, and the major shops were closed, I headed back anyways.  I got on the computer and relaxed a bit, read some more of my book, and passed out pretty early.

Sunday morning I woke up, had breakfast, and got my stuff together.  I had to check out of the hostel by 10 and my flight didn't leave until 4 so I was considering walking around the city center again, but it was pouring down rain and freezing cold so I decided to just head to the airport.  I took a bus to the airport instead of a cab to save money, went through security, and spent the afternoon shopping around the airport, had lunch, had a beer, looked at some magazines, etc.  Finally my gate was announced and I was on the plane heading back to Naples!

Overall, I had an absolutely amazing weekend in Liverpool!  First of all I was very proud of myself for initiating the whole trip, for planning it, and most importantly paying for the whole thing by myself.  Secondly I was proud of myself for going as an independent traveler.  Most girls my age probably wouldn't be caught dead eating by themselves in a restaurant, but I was fine with it!  And lastly, it was great to experience another culture.  I've been to London before, so I already knew how much I loved the UK.  After 6 months in Italy it was nice to be able to speak English with everyone I came in contact with.  Additionally, I can't get over just how impressed I was with the street fashion in Liverpool.  I hate to say it, but British girls are a lot more stylish than Italian girls.  I think it's because they don't give-in to the cliche' designer lines and instead show their individual personalities with their clothing.  Every outfit I saw was flawlessly and creatively put together, from the outfit itself to the hair and the makeup.  Think Lady Gaga meets Katy Perry meets Rihanna meets Pixie Lott and that's how basically every girl on the street was dressed.  It's those type of outfits that you see celebrities wearing on TV and in magazines, and you admire them, but would never wear it yourself.  Here's some interesting links I found on fashion in the UK:
http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article6738670.ece
http://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/conservation/exhibitions/streetlife/
http://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/liverpool-life/fashion/2009/10/14/fashion-so-what-liverpool-street-style-are-you-100252-24922566/

The main thing I loved about Liverpool was that it was such a cultured and cultivated city.  I honestly think this ideal goes back to John Lennon (and the rest of the Beatles) being from Liverpool and everything he (they) did for world peace and acceptance.  Liverpool is so liberal, so against racism, so accepting of the homosexual culture, so accepting of all different religions and backgrounds, so adept to bringing light to many subjects like depression and homelessness, it really impressed me and inspired me.  Liverpool is definitely a model city that every other city, especially in the US, should try to be like.  Just like a t-shirt I saw said: "Liverpool...probably the best city in the world."

Cheers!

Bbrrr.....

Hey and welcome everyone!  Just wanted to post a quick update to fill you guys in on the end of last week and my weekend, along with some other things!

The girls ended up staying home all week last week because they both were a bit sick.  So, it was no gym for me and I had to put on my thinking cap to come up with lots of activites for us to do inside all day!  By the end of the week I think the three of us were dying to get out of the house after being cooped up all week.  Friday night Rosa taught me to make pizza from scratch.  I have made pizza before at home, but only with pre-mixed dough.  Now I know how to make the real stuff, and will definitely be cooking some up in the kitchen when I come home!  Saturday the family went out for the day and I had plans to do some touristy sight-seeing stuff around Naples.  The main thing I wanted to go see was San Gregorio Armeno...a street in the historic center of Naples that features the work of local craftsmen.  This street is extremely popular during Christmas time because of the traditional nativity scenes and figures.  I had seen pictures of San Gregorio Armeno online but nothing compared to seeing it in person!  I can't believe I forgot my camera, but will definitely be going back again.  The whole street was packed with tourists and shop after shop of handymen and crasftmen building these amazing nativy scenes and characters.  All of the shops also had all of their holiday decorations out, Pulcinella figures, and more!  One of the shops even had little statuettes of famous figures like Michael Jakckson, Obama, and George Clooney & Elisabetta Canalis!  Here is a great website that tells more about San Gregorio Armeno: Click here!  Sunday was usual, had a big lunch and relaxed around the house all day.  The weather has been terribly cold with terrential downpours the last couple of days, so we all just wanted to stay inside!  Luckily Saturday was sunny when I went out, but it was still freezing!  This is my first winter in Italy and it's not even really winter yet...I can only imagine how January and February will be!

In other news...I have a huge announcement to make that only a few people know about!  I have been thinking a lot about what I'm going to do in May when my year contract is over, as well as what I'm going to do in the future with the degree I have in Psychology.  I guess you could call it a bit of a quarter-life crisis...I was so stressed out!  After a lot of deep thinking, soul searching, and talking with my family, I have finally come up with a plan.  I have decided to return home in May, and re-enroll at UNCW to obtain my teaching licensure.  I have always wanted to be a teacher but it was something I strayed away from because I don't think they make enough money.  I originally decided to get into Psychology because I thought I could still work with kids and make more money.  But, my heart really isn't in Psychology.  I have now realized that it is more important to me to love what I do and be happy to go to work everyday than to do something I don't enjoy just to make more money.  So I've decided to become a teacher.  I need to take classes all summer and pass the Praxis I, and then hopefully I will enter the Watson School of Education at UNCW in the fall.  The program is 2 years long, so if I'm done in May 2012, hopefully I can begin teaching in the fall of 2012!  I am very excited and feel so relieved that I'm following my calling to be a teacher.  I have always loved working with children and the thought of having my own classroom gets me very excited.  I've been researching grade curriculums and I think I would really like to teach 2nd grade.  In addition, looking towards the future, you really can't beat the schedule of a school teacher has.  Summers off, holidays off...when I have kids, we'll have the same schedule...snow days, hurricane days, teacher work days...how can you beat it!  I'm extremely excited and relieved to finally have a plan for a career, and I am anxious to see how everything pans out.

I would also like to say that after reading over a few of my previous posts, I really sound like I hate my life here!  I don't want to come across that way AT ALL!  I hope you all don't think I'm some homesick whining ungrateful little girl.  I am so grateful for this experience and trust me, I am having the time of my life.  Yes it is challenging but the good times outweigh the bad times by FAR.  Something as simple as walking around the historic center of Naples on a sunny day and mingling with the locals, like I did Saturday, can put the hugest smile on my face.  When Chiara wakes up in the middle of the night calling out for me (yes, instead of her mom), it makes my heart skip a beat.  When Vittoria runs up to me and nuzzles her face in my neck, it almost brings a tear to my eye.  Hearing the girls speak more and more English everyday and saying 'Elisabetta, I love you!' makes me so proud.  I love these girls with all of my heart.  They are my whole entire world right now.  And I'm proud to say that I also love Naples, and that anyone who comes here and only complains about the trash is blind!  This is such an amazing city, rich in culture and art and history and food.  I got a little choked up when me and Rosa began talking about a good date for me to leave in May.  I know it's early but she needs to begin searching for a girl to replace me...I remember I started talking to her about this time last year.  It's very bittersweet.

Anyways, without rambling too much, I hope you all are enjoying my posts!  I know I can ramble a little bit but I tend to write how I speak, and you all know I could talk all day.  11 days until my weekend in Liverpool and 29 days until my week in North Carolina, and the holidays are coming up!  So hopefully I will have some pretty interesting posts soon!  Tanti baci per tutti!  Arrivederci!

Changes & Challenges

Yesterday during lunch Rosa and I had a really great conversation. I don’t know how we got to the topic, but we started talking about my experience as an Au Pair. I just passed my 5-month mark, meaning I’ve been here for almost ½ a year now and my time here is almost halfway over. I can’t believe how time is flying!

So we were talking about the experience I’ve had so far and what it means to be an Au Pair in general. I’d like to write about what ‘being an Au Pair’ means to me. A lot of people think I’m out here in Italy living some kind of ‘dream life’. Yes, I’m in Italy, and yes, it is amazing, but it’s far from glamorous! Unless you consider cooking, cleaning, grocery shopping, and butt wiping glamorous! So I’d like to give you guys a peek into my life as an Au Pair…

What a typical day is like for me…
I wake up around 7:45, get the girls ready for school, and bring them to school. I come back home, have breakfast, and usually go to the gym and run some errands. When I get back home, I take a shower and have lunch, do whatever else I need to do, then go pick up Vittoria from school. An hour later, Vittoria and I go pick up Chiara from school. Then we usually play or do some type of arts & crafts until dinner time, which is around 6. After dinner I tidy up the house, wash the girls, put them in their pajamas, and we usually watch a movie until Rosa gets home from work. Rosa gets home at about 7:30 and Bruno at about 8:30, by which time the girls are normally asleep. Then the three of us have dinner at around 9. After dinner I help with the dishes, relax, watch TV, or get on the computer, and try to get to sleep by 11. On Tuesdays and Fridays Chiara has swimming lessons from 4:30 until 5:30 so I take her (and Vittoria) to the pool. On Mondays, Wednesday, and Fridays, the cleaning lady comes in the morning so I try to stay out of her way. Keep in mind, I don’t have a car here, so all these places I’m going and all these things I’m doing means walking. For example, on Tuesdays I pack Chiara’s bag for the pool, walk with Vittoria to get Chiara from school, then walk with both girls and their pool bag and Chiara’s bookbag and whatever else all the way to the pool. You don’t even want to know about the days when it’s raining and we have to incorporate umbrellas into this routine…

Learning Patience…
One of the main things I’m gaining out of my year as an Au Pair is a ton of patience. It’s not that I’ve always been an impatient person, it’s just that I’ve been on my own for the past 4 years, have had my own car since I was 16, etc. etc., so I never had to wait on anything or anyone and could usually do what I wanted, whenever I wanted. Being here has taught me to slow down and be patient and wait my turn. For example, the month we were on holiday at the sea, the house we were staying in had only one bathroom, hence, only one shower. After a long day in the sun and sand, I’m usually sprinting to the nearest shower. Well, this was not the case. First dibs on the shower went to the girls of course, which was a long process in itself. And then Rosa would shower, and then Bruno. And then whoever was visiting us would shower…one week it was Rosa’s sister, another week it was Bruno’s parents. And then, finally, almost two hours later, I could take a shower. I was miserable sitting around in a wet bathing suit covered in sand for that much time, so eventually I resorted to the ol’ baby-wipe method and cleaned up that way! Another example is meal time. Living on my own for the past 4 years, I’ve been able to eat whenever I wanted to. Basically just whenever I was hungry. Now, I have to wait for dinner. Not such a big deal, but definitely a bit of an adjustment. Another thing, I always get stuck with what I like to call ‘the dirty work’. You know, the things you usually run from doing because you’re too lazy or you just don’t feel like it. Yea, that stuff all gets laid on me. It’s okay though – it’s part of my job and it’s forcing me to grow up. If we get dressed up and go out to a fancy dinner, it’s guaranteed that Chiara is gonna have to use the bathroom (so I take her), and it’s guaranteed that as soon as I get back, Vittoria will have to go (so I take her.) It’s guaranteed that they will get restless and start running around the restaurant, so I have to go chase them down while my food is getting cold. And another thing: public transportation. I’ve grown to absolutely despise it, but I deal with it, because I have to. I’m so used to hopping in my own car and driving whenever I want. Now I have to go buy a bus ticket, and wait for the bus, which can take anywhere from 5 minutes to 1 hour. And once the bus finally comes, it’s jam-packed with old women who look like they hate their life or old men who secretly try to rub up on you. Sometimes I take a taxi and pay the extra money just to spare myself! I’m not complaining about all of these things, I’m just making a point that this has all made me more patient. For the past four years I’ve grown so accustomed to doing whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted, without having to answer to anyone or take responsibility for anyone. Those times are long gone and the situation I’m in now is teaching me more patience, more responsibility, and more conscientiousness than I ever thought I could have!

The ‘Pros and Cons’
The last little ‘peek’ into being an Au Pair…
When I was looking into becoming an Au Pair and talking to different families, I knew I had to make my choice based on the Pros and Cons. How much money I would get paid, how many kids were in the family, the ages of the kids, the personality of the family, what was expected of me etc. were all things I took into consideration. I have been so lucky with the family I’m with, because things have worked out perfectly. I had to give up some things in order to gain other things, but it’s all about compromise with a job like this. I don’t mind sharing a bedroom with a 3-year-old because I’m getting paid really good and don’t have any expenses. I don’t mind living with a young family because they’ve provided me with a cell phone, bus tickets, food, and I even get to go on vacation with them. However, there are three things that have made my experience very challenging, and they are things that I never even thought about before I came here. They are things that I was only able to realize once I got here. The first is the language barrier. I thought nothing of it because I studied abroad in Florence in the summer of 2008 and was able to get along just fine. There was literally no language barrier; everyone I met or came in contact with spoke at least a little bit of English. Well, I didn’t realize it, but in Naples, virtually nobody speaks English. It’s not an ‘international city’ like Rome or Florence, it’s not touristy, and the general population isn’t very well educated. They don’t have a reason to speak English. Thankfully, Rosa speaks English. But when we go to family events, she’s not going to talk to just me the entire time; that’s just not right. Yes I am learning Italian, but besides the basics, I can’t get into a deep conversation with anyone. It’s also been very hard to find an Italian-language course that I could attend in Naples; something that would be a lot easier to find in Rome or Florence. But, I’m getting by. The second thing I didn’t realize was how hard it would be without a group of friends. It's definitely a struggle not having a peer-group to lean on.  Actually, not having a peer-group is a major risk factor for depression (says the psychologist in me.)  My brother always says "how hard can Italy be? I was in freakin' Iraq" and I think "Yes, you were in Iraq, on an American base with all your American products and all your American buddies to hang out with."  Even if you join the Peace Corps and go to some 3rd-world country, you still have your friends.  Even if you're a soldier in Iraq, you still have your support system.  I don't.  I thought I’d be meeting all these people and going out all the time. Well, it hasn’t happened. People ask me why. It’s kind of hard to answer that. Why? Because during the week I’m busy with the girls, so that’s out of the question. On the weekend I’m free, but what am I supposed to do, go to some bar or nightclub all by myself and just start talking to random people? I guess I could do that, but then again, it’s not very common for people here to speak English. When you really think about it, all the friends you have right now are people you met at school, at work, or through another friend. Well, I don’t go to school, my ‘work’ is the girls, and you can’t meet friends of friends when you don’t have any friends. I’m not asking for pity, and I don’t feel sorry for myself, but when people say “OMG I bet you’re going out all the time and meeting so many people”, they don’t understand why I don’t and why I can’t. Now, with all of that said, I do have a couple of friends here in Naples. The first is Rosa’s sister Mary, who is close to my age. We went out one night in Naples and had a decent time. When we were on holiday in Gaeta she stayed with us for a week, and we went out every night. It was with her that I might Mario and his group of friends. However, they all live in Caserta and barely ever come to Naples, and I’ve only seen Mary once since Gaeta because she is busy with work and her own friends and her boyfriend. My second friend is Lucia, who I met in Gaeta through a cousin of Rosa. Lucia is my age and attends university here. We exchanged numbers and have hung out several times since Gaeta and I’m so thankful to her! (Lucia, if you’re reading this, HI!). She has introduced me to areas of Naples that I didn’t know before, like Piazza Vanvitelli and all the great shopping around there. We’ve gone for coffee in a great little café. We like the same music. She’s introduced me to a couple of her girl friends, and this past Sunday she invited me to come to the movies with her and her friend Marco. And best of all, she (and her friends) speak English! I am so grateful to know someone like Lucia here in Naples. Sometimes I feel bad because I’m a little clueless about the city and I don’t want her to think I’m relying on her or that she has to hold my hand through everything, especially since she is still in university and is busy a lot, but it is SO nice to have someone to hang out with on weekends. The final challenge that I’m facing here in Naples is that sometimes I feel like I’m losing a year of my youth. By that I mean, with my job comes a lot of responsibility, so I feel like I can’t enjoy being young. I go all week without fixing my hair or wearing makeup, because the only people who see me besides the family are the cashier at the grocery store and the girls’ teachers. I want to buy all these fabulous clothes and shoes but I don’t because I have nowhere to wear them; during the week I’m usually in jeans and a t-shirt or a sweater. I can’t update my Twitter and Facebook from my Blackberry or iPhone like all my friends do. I can’t lay around the house all weekend in my pajamas. I can’t hop in my car and just cruise with the windows down and the music up. I can’t go out to lunch with my girlfriends, get drunk on a random weeknight, or flirt with a cute guy in class. I can’t do these things because I don’t HAVE these things. It’s a lot of things that I’ve always had or always been able to do, but took them for granted while they were there. Now that they’re gone, I miss them.

I haven’t written this post to complain. I don’t want people to pity me or feel sorry for me. I just want people to see what I'm actually doing over here and understand that the experience I’m having isn’t some glamorous amazing dream. It’s actually a challenge that I’ve been happy to take on, and it’s made me grow up a whole lot. I’ve been completely out of my comfort-zone for the past five months, but it’s made me a stronger and hopefully a better person. With all of that said, being an Au Pair in a foreign country is the most amazing thing I have ever experienced. If anyone has even considered doing it, I can’t scream it loud enough: DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! PLEASE! It’s such an amazing thing. If you need help or advice, I can walk you through it. It seems so crazy that last year at this time I was signing up on the greataupair.com website…and I slowly started talking to families…and Rosa and I started making plans…and here I am, in Italy, actually doing it. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to make sure it’s really happening. I love Italy and I love the Italian culture...the European culture.  I'm embracing it and learning as much about it as I can and familiarizing myself with it.  It’s been such a great opportunity, and even with all the ups and downs, I wouldn’t trade it for anything!

The Art of the Vespa

I’d like to call this…
‘The Art of Riding the Vespa’

In Italy, as in all of Europe, the moped is a very popular vehicle. It’s a lot cheaper than a car, probably a lot better on gas, and when there’s a traffic jam you can maneuver through everything and get where you’re going a lot quicker. Mopeds are a new concept to me, as my dad has a Harley Davidson and I’m used to having to get really suited up to go on a ride, and I’m more accustomed to the size and strength of the Harley.

At one point this summer, my goal was to ride on a Vespa – that’s all I wanted to do, was hop on the back of some cute little moped with a cute guy and fly through the city. Well, it finally happened! The guy I met in Gaeta, Mario, had his car with him but he also had a Vespa and we rode it everywhere. In a little sundress and sandals, usually without a helmet, we’d fly along the coastline going from bar to bar. On my last night in Gaeta I had an extremely embarrassing moment: we were leaving a bar to head home and as I was climbing onto the back of Mario’s Vespa I lost my footing and FELL. Not just a stumble, but literally fell straight onto my back, in the street, giving everyone a nice little view up my dress. And no, I was not drunk, as in Italy it is not normal for a girl to have more than two drinks in one night. I was absolutely mortified but Mario kept reassuring me, telling me it’s more common than you might think. And of course, I had my little Vespa accident while in Florence with my parents. You can read all about it in my last post!

I’ve noticed some pretty crazy things on mopeds while I’ve been in Italy. You would think you would only see one or maybe two people riding on a moped. Oh, no. It gets a lot more advanced than that. Try 3 people at one time. Or dad driving the moped with mom on the back, holding the newborn baby. Or mom driving the moped and dad on the back with their two toddlers sandwiched in between. Or businesswomen driving mopeds with briefcases and purses balanced on their lap. Or an old guy driving a moped with another guy on the back, balancing a huge piece of plywood or glass. Or someone driving their moped with their dog in their lap, paws on the handlebars. Every day I see a moped fly by and think, “Well, that’s a new one!”.

To experience the thrill of riding a Vespa through Naples, check out this video

Me on the Vespa in Florence

Week with my Parents!

I can’t believe it’s been a couple of weeks since I’ve written! I apologize to everyone and especially to myself, because I feel myself starting to slip off the blog bandwagon and that is something I promised myself I wouldn’t let happen!

I’m trying to remember what’s new since my last post…

The week of September 28th went by relatively quickly, compared to how excited I was about my parents coming that weekend. I spent the week running errands, working out really hard, and following a strict diet so that I could look my best when I saw my parents. I hadn’t seen them in over 4 months, which is the longest we have ever gone apart (besides my dad’s military deployments.)

On Saturday October 3rd I spent the day organizing and packing my things, got a hair cut, got my eyebrows done, nails and toes done, the whole nine yards. Being that I’m home all day with the girls and never really leave the house, I really jump on any opportunity to get dolled up! That night I surprisingly fell asleep pretty easily, but woke up at about 5 in the morning (my alarm was set for 6). I knew there was no way I’d be able to fall back asleep, so I just got up and started to slowly get ready. A taxi picked me up at 7 and before I knew it I was on the 7:45 train heading to Rome. The entire time, I was checking my clock, thinking “where are they now? Okay now they should be landing. Now they should be heading to the hotel” etc. etc. When I got to Rome I hopped on the metro and got off at the first stop, Cavour. It was then that my excitement and anxiety started kicking in, and all I wanted was my mommy and daddy! I don’t know how I got myself and my luggage up the steep hill leading to the hotel, but all I know is, as soon as I walked through the door I heard my mom gasp, as I dropped all my bags to the floor and flew into her arms. I was laughing and crying and out of breath from walking so fast and it was honestly the happiest moment I’ve ever experienced in my life. I don’t know and I don’t even care who else was in the lobby or what everyone thought of us – we were all being so loud and crying and laughing and hugging we probably looked so strange, but who cares! I was so happy to be with my parents. My daddy gave me a great big bear hug, something I have been craving forever. Of course I hug the girls all the time but any daddy’s girl will tell you that nothing compares to hugs from daddy! We recollected ourselves and chatted for a while, then put our luggage into a holding room (we couldn’t check in our room until 2pm) and then went out for a walk. I was so excited to be back in Rome and absolutely ecstatic to be with my parents – I probably looked childish not wanting to let go of their hands! We walked right over to the Colosseum and gazed in awe at its size and history. This was my third time in Rome and my millionth time seeing the Colosseum but I don’t think I could ever get used to seeing structures like this around the city. We walked a lap around the Colosseum and snapped some pictures, then stopped at a little outdoor café for a beer. The entire time we were chatting and catching up. I was probably talking their ears off, as I was so excited to be able to speak English again! Anyone who knows me, knows that I love to talk, and it’s torture keeping my mouth closed all day every day (or attempting to speak Italian)! I could tell that my parents were super jet lagged and tired from traveling, so we walked a little bit further to Piazza Venezia and the Vittorio Emanuel Monument (the ‘Wedding Cake’) and then headed back to the hotel. We decided that it would be best to eat lunch first, and then take naps and showers. At lunch I was able to impress them by conversing with the waitress in Italian. After lunch they took naps and showers and were immediately recharged. Later that evening we visited the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps and then had a great dinner. The next day we did all the sightseeing stuff, including the morning market in Campo dei Fiori, the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, the Tiber River, St. Peter’s Square, and St. Peter’s Basilica. We had lunch at L’insalata Ricca (definitely recommend it if you are ever in Rome!) and later I talked them into going to Scholar’s, an Irish Pub, for a drink. Scholar’s was me and Cara’s nightly spot the week we were in Rome because it stayed open until 4, while all the other bars closed at 2. Cara introduced me to Scholar’s because it was her old stomping grounds when she lived in Rome for 4 months. We had another great dinner that night, then organized our stuff in preparation to leave for Florence the next morning!

The next morning we caught the metro to the train station and got on a train to Florence. I was so excited to be returning to the city that first inspired ALL of this. I studied abroad in Florence in the summer of 2008, and it was then that I fell in love with Italy, the Italian language, the food, the culture, and more. It was also there that I began thinking about returning to Italy after I graduated college, which prompted me to look into being an Au Pair, and, well, here I am! I do love Rome but I am a little biased to Florence and it is definitely one of (if not THE) my favorite cities in the world. As we rode in our taxi from the train station to the hotel, I couldn’t believe how much I remembered about the city. I knew exactly where we were at all times and I knew what was coming up around the corner. We got to our hotel and got settled in…Hotel Fiorino, another recommendation if you ever visit Florence. It was so small and cute, I think it used to be a house, and of course it was family run. Only 10 rooms and I think for the first night we were the only ones staying there. The receptionist spoke perfect English but spoke to me only in Italian, which made me feel special! As soon as we got settled we went out sightseeing. I didn’t need a map at all and we literally did all of the sightseeing that afternoon. We visited Piazza Signoria, my old apartment, the Duomo, Piazza Repubblica, the Ponte Vecchio and Ponte Trinita, and the leather market with the little statue of the pig. We picked up some sandwiches for lunch at a little café near my old apartment. After lunch, Mom was ready for a nap, but me and Dad were wide awake so I took him to my old stomping grounds: The Lion’s Fountain! It’s an Irish pub that me and my old schoolmates used to go to all the time. We had a beer and I found where I had written on the wall over a year ago. We walked around some more and then bought a couple more beers and went and sat on the Ponte Vecchio and drank and talked for a while. It was getting late and we thought mom might be up from her nap so we headed back to the hotel. By then we were all in the mood for some coffee and maybe some sweets so I took them to my secret spot that no tourists know about. Now I will tell you how to get there, if you are ever in Florence. Go to the Piazza Repubblica, and stand in the middle, facing the arch. Turn around and there will be a big department store directly in front of you. Go into the department store and all the way to the back wall, where the escalators are. Take the escalators all the way to the top (5th) floor, which I think is the home decorating department. Walk to the other side of the department where there are a set of stairs. Go up the stairs into a small café, and then take the stair case to the right, which will bring you to an outdoor café on the very top of the department store, overlooking the Piazza and actually overlooking most of Florence. It is an amazing spot! Later we had dinner at the Golden View (another recommendation) which is across the river on the other side of the city. The Golden View was definitely my favorite restaurant when I lived in Florence. It was a restaurant we could use our meal plan at, it has amazing food, and best of all an amazing view (hence the name!). After a great dinner and lots of wine, we hung out on the Ponte Vecchio and listened to some live music. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day. But I was even more excited for the next morning: We had plans to go rent Vespas! The next morning we were up bright and early and ready for our Vespa excursion. Riding a Vespa is something I’d wanted to do for a really long time. I had ridden on the back of one before, but never driven one. And I knew it had to be super easy – if you’ve ever been to Naples you’re used to seeing 2 or even 3 kids riding one, without helmets, not even paying attention, and whizzing through the city streets. How hard could it be? It seemed more like an electric bicycle than an actual motorcycle to me. We got to the rental place and went through all the paper work and planning. We got 2 cute black ones, one for me and one for Dad and mom. Dad got me set up on mine and I waited for him and mom to get set up on theirs. I yelled over to my dad to go slow at first so that I could get a hang of it, maybe do a few laps on the street we were on, and then we could take them away. When I started to go I faltered a little bit, and had to back up and try again. Dad gave me some really good advice (he has a Harley) so I was finally ready to go and felt like I knew what I was doing. I got started going good but before I knew it, I lost control and heard my dad yelling “Stop! Stop!” and I hit a parked car. Yes, I hit a parked car. The handlebar jabbed into the stomach, ripping my shirt and breaking skin, and I fell to the ground, banging both knees and my right hand. The bike was on its side and sounded like it was revving up, so I crawled off and away from it as fast as I could. A few guys that had been nearby ran to my rescue, turned off the bike, and helped me up. My mom ran back to the shop to tell them what had happened, as my dad calmed me down and looked me over and looked the bike over. To make a long story short, I walked away with some pretty bad bruises and scratches and most of all a hurt spirit, but it could have been a lot worse. I’ll have to pay for the damage to the Vespa but hopefully it won't be too much, as it wasn’t totaled. Now, one week later, I’m still dealing with some pain but I’m almost 100% better. I guess I learned my lesson that it’s definitely not as easy as it looks, and that you need lessons before trying to drive one of those things. It would be like renting and trying to ride a bicycle without ever having ridden one before. After everything was settled, we walked back to the city center, me leading my parents with my head hanging and not speaking a word. I was in a lot of pain and really embarrassed, but most of all, frustrated and mad. I told them right away that I would pay for all the damage, as it was my idea to rent them in the first place and it was me who got in the accident. We reached Piazza Repubblica and kind of regrouped, and thought of a different plan for the day now that our plans had changed. We decided to get tickets for the Hop On – Hop Off City Sightseeing Bus Tour (you know, those red double decker busses that are in big cities all over the world with all the tourists on them). I have always made fun of those things when I’ve seen them and always swore to myself I would never do one, but it ended up being great! We chose the line that would take us up into Fiesole, where we had a great lunch. Being on the bus gives you a break from so much walking, allows you to see all the sights quicker, and when you put the headphones on you can hear great information about everything you’re seeing plus listen to some great Italian music! That night we had dinner at Danny Rock, the perfect place to find burgers, Heinz ketchup, and ranch dressing if you’re missing American food. I was craving a burger with the signature ‘green sauce’, something that my old roommates thought was disgusting but I loved! The next morning Dad and I were in line at 8:00am to climb the Duomo. It was something I always wanted to do, so I thought it would be a good way of saying farewell to Florence before heading to Naples. We were first in line and first to the top (after 400+ stairs!). My dad timed it and it took as 12 minutes to get to the top. It was a bit of a workout, but the view is so gorgeous and so peaceful at that time in the morning, it was worth it! Afterwards we had a big breakfast at the hotel, checked out, and got on a train heading to Naples!

I was so excited to be coming ‘home’ to Naples but nervous about what my parents would think about it. As we were getting closer on the train I kept warning them. I wanted them to expect the worse so that maybe when they actually saw it they wouldn’t think it was that bad. Actually, Naples isn’t that bad, but we were staying in a hotel that was right across from the train station, which is probably the worst area in Naples. This piazza, Piazza Garibaldi, has been described before as being worse than a 3-world country. The trash everywhere is unbelievable, the traffic, the gypsies, the stray dogs. I felt bad that this would be their first impression of Naples, but as soon as we walked through the front doors of the hotel it felt like we were walking out of chaos and into paradise. If you ever come to Naples, I definitely recommend staying at UNA Hotel Napoli. Rosa and Bruno know the director so they gave us a suite at a really cheap price. After settling in we went for a walk and had lunch at the famous and historical L’antica Pizzeria da Michele. This pizzeria is featured in the book ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ by Elizabeth Gilbert and Julia Roberts was just here to film scenes for the movie adaptation of the book. It is recommended by almost every travel and tourist guide book. It’s probably the best pizza I’ve ever had in my life, which is saying a lot as I’ve been in Naples for 5 months now and Naples is the birthplace of pizza. There are no menus because there are only two types of pizza you can get. We each got a pizza margherita and let the beer flow! In addition to that, it's super cheap.  For three pizzas, four beers, and a coke, our total was less than 20 euro.  After lunch we walked all the way down to Castel Nuovo, which is where the Hop On – Hop Off City Sightseeing busses for Napoli meet. We got on a line that would take us along the sea-side, and it ended up being absolutely gorgeous with the sun setting in the background. My mom kept saying that Naples was her favorite – because there weren’t any tourists and it seemed like this was the ‘real’ Italy, and the part of Italy that her parents came from so she felt more familiar with it. It was really a great tour. That night I left them at the hotel and headed back to the house. I unpacked my stuff and got settled in back ‘home’, but had plans to meet them the next morning. Rosa dropped me off at the hotel the next morning on her way to work. I had breakfast with my parents and then we headed to the port to catch a ferry to Capri. The day in Capri started off cloudy and overcast, but after a couple of hours, the brilliant sun came out, making everything look 100% more beautiful. We went all over the island, up both sides, took lots of great pictures, and had a nice lunch. Before long we were on a boat heading back to Naples, because that night was the cap of the whole trip – my parents and I having dinner with my second family!

We got to the house at about 8:30, and when I rang the bell, the girls came screaming and laughing and running and jumping into my arms. My parents probably thought it was the cutest thing! I introduced my parents to Rosa and Bruno and the girls and Rosa’s mom. They all got along great right from the start and we all talked non-stop the entire night. We had a delicious dinner, made by Rosa’s mom, of a couple different types of pizza and eggplant parmigiano. After dinner, my dad and Bruno smoked a cigar outside on the terrace. The girls really took to my parents as well, in fact they really loved my dad, who would play with them and toss them up really high. Somehow we got to planning a trip for the Pinci family to come visit North Carolina!  The night came to an end all too soon and I rode with Bruno to take my parents back to their hotel. Me and my mom had been debating whether to say bye that night or for me to come to the hotel the next morning and we could say our goodbyes then. I opted for the latter. So the next morning I woke up bright and early again and hopped in a cab back down to the hotel. I had breakfast with my parents and we hung out in their hotel room, talked, watched TV, and they slowly packed up their stuff. My mom brought me a lot of stuff from home that I needed and I had a lot of stuff to give her that I didn’t need anymore. Before we knew it, it was time to check out of the hotel and head over to the train station. I walked with them to the train station, helped them get their tickets, and walked all the way down the platform with them. They found their seats and loaded their luggage onto the train and then came back down to the platform so we could all say our goodbyes. I was pretty emotional that my parents were leaving, partly because we had had such a wonderful week, partly because they are truly my best friends, and partly because I didn’t know when I would get to see them again. We were debating me coming home for a week in December so it could possibly be until next summer that I would get to see them again. I couldn’t help but cry and didn’t want to let go of their hugs. Eventually they had to get on the train and take their seats, but I still stood on the platform until the train left. Right before they got on the train, daddy said they would book me a flight home in December which made me feel 150% better. Standing on the platform all alone watching their train pull away was a pretty emotional moment, and it definitely felt like I was in a movie. I felt a big surge of tears coming but before anything happened I got myself to calm down. I walked out of the station, into the chaos of Naples, hailed a cab, and headed home.

My parents’ week in Italy was probably one of the best weeks of my life. I have such a deep passion for Italy and the Italian culture, and I was so glad to be able to share that with my parents. I think they were impressed by my knowledge of the history of all the sights we saw, impressed by my Italian-language speaking, and hopefully impressed that I have grown up and matured a lot. I remember when we were on a public bus in Capri, I gave up my seat to an older lady and afterwards glanced at my mom and she looked very proud of me. That’s something I wouldn’t have done half a year ago. Their visit definitely recharged me for the months to come, and I think it was a good idea to come back to the house instead of staying at the hotel in Naples with them. That way, it was an easier transition for me to get back into my life routine here. I didn’t want to have a huge breakdown like I did when Cara left, so I was mentally preparing myself all week and made sure that the transition went very smooth. I think it helped a lot to have my parents come to the house, see where I live, see all my stuff, see my bed. And it worked; from the moment they left I was absolutely fine. There were times when I would get emotional about having to say goodbye to them, which really upset my mom, because she didn’t like seeing me that way. But I reassured her, just as I’ve told Rosa, that I’m fine here. It’s a wonderful experience and a great challenge but it’s natural to be a little homesick once in a while. And of course it’s hard being away from my parents, because I am so close to them. But if I really thought I couldn’t do it…if I really was just absolutely miserable here, Rosa and Bruno and my parents all know that I would be on the next flight home. But I’m not. I’m having the time of my life and learning so much and have already been here for 5 months…half of my time here is almost already over! Before I know it, it will all be a distant memory, one that I’m sure I will get emotional about and miss terribly. So although I do miss home and my family and friends, I know that it is all part of growing up and in the long-run it is making me a better person.

Arrivederci!

Past couple of weeks!

Just wanted to fill you guys in on the past couple of weeks and what I've been up to!

Last Saturday, September 12th, I woke up super early and got on a train heading towards Pompei. I spent the entire day exploring the ruins with the help of my little guide book. It was so interesting! I'm not a big history person but who could NOT get chills just walking through that city, frozen in time, with Mt. Vesuvius looming in the background!? It was a great adventure but it completely wore me out. Afterwards I had lunch before getting on the train back to Naples and had a great conversation with my server. He was Ukrainian but from Chicago, now lives in Naples and works at a restaurant in Pompei, and is going to the Ukraine in a couple of weeks for university. He was able to speak English, Italian, Ukraine, and Russian. How crazy is that!?

That evening I met up with my friend Lucia for coffee. Lucia is a girl I met through Rosa while on vacation in Gaeta. She is my age and is studying law at the university in Naples. She is such a sweetheart and speaks perfect English and I am so glad to now have a friend like her!

September 14th was Chiara's first day of school. Vittoria had already been going to school for a couple of weeks, but now we are getting settled into a schedule with both of them going. They both start at different times and need to get picked up at different times and for right now only Vittoria is eating lunch at school but eventually they will both stay longer and both eat lunch at school. Anyways, it has been really nice having the mornings to myself. I've been able to take my time with my morning workout and not feel so rushed, I can get a little shopping done, and I've been taking on projects around the house. One day I organized the girls' closet, another day I organized their dresser. Now I am slowly weeding through all of their toys...I've already thrown away a few bag fulls of pure junk - scraps of paper, broken bits, etc. Rosa said we can go to Ikea and buy some nice storage bins or an organizing unit. I love doing stuff like this!

This past Sunday, the 20th, I met up with Lucia and two of her girlfriends. These girls were super nice as well, and one of them spoke absolutely flawless English. When she would talk, she didn't struggle at all and honestly sounded like a native-English speaker. She knew all the abbreviations, idioms, everything. That is my GOAL with the Italian language!

On Monday, Chiara and Vittoria went to the pool for their 'proofing' session - to see if they would be able to take swimming classes. Chiara did a great job but Vittoria cried a lot and needed a lot of hand-holding; at 2 1/2 years old I think she is a bit too young. So the next day, Tuesday, we went back to the pool for Chiara's first lesson and so that Vittoria could proof again. They are so cute together in the pool, and one of their teachers, Giuseppe, is easy on the eyes so I don't mind sitting there for an hour ;) See video below!

Tuesday was also my 4-month mark of being in Italy! I feel like I have been here so much longer, maybe because I have been experiencing so much it doesn't seem possible that it all could have fit into 4 months! Either way, time is flying, so I'm making sure to 'stop and smell the roses' because I'm sure that before I know it, my year in Naples will be over. I can't even begin to imagine!

Today was my onomastico, which means 'name day'. There's really no translation or equivalent for it in English, but basically it means that if you share your name with a saint, then on the day of that saint, you have a little celebration, kind of like a mini-birthday. Today is the day of Santa Elisabetta, so, it's my onomastico. We celebrated with a yummy cake after dinner :)

And last but not least, my parents will be here in 11 days! I could not be more ecstatic! This is the longest I've ever gone without seeing my parents and I am craving a big bear hug from both of them! On top of that, I'm excited to share my love and enthusiasm for Italy with them!

Street Fashion in Naples

I’ve always had a strong interest in fashion and like to think that I'm pretty original with my style, but between a lack of creativity and a lack of money, I know I’m only kidding myself by thinking this way. While my style may not boring, there is definitely not anything special about it. I have the best intentions to be creative with my clothing but my wardrobe still consists of basic jeans, basic tops, and a few cute dresses. After 4 months in Naples I am still trying to figure out the fashion here, and it’s hard to resist temptation to buy items that are staples in every Neapolitan woman’s closet. Which makes me wonder: even for the most independent-minded, do your surroundings really impact who you are? Can you EVER really be an ‘individual’ or have you ‘own style’? I think not. Of course we all have choices as to what we wear or what kind of personality we exude, but I think it all boils down to availability. If you’re a sport-loving comfort-seeking type of person who only ever wears Nike sweatsuits and sneakers, and you move to Italy, you might eventually start wearing nice jeans and designer loafers, simply because your old sweatsuits aren’t available here.

I think that Neapolitans, as all Italians in general, take fashion very seriously. Not even necessarily what they are literally wearing, but their makeup, hair, the way they present themselves, and overall the type of ‘air’ that they give off. Without fail, every time I go out in public, I walk past some beautiful Italian woman, gracefully walking down the impossible cobblestone streets in the highest of heels, hair blowing in the breeze, and absolutely radiating confidence. They take so much pride in how they look.

So I’ve decided to take to the streets and do some research. What are the most common styles here in Napoli? What is one thing that almost everyone seems to own? And most amusing – why do I stick out like a sore thumb when I wear ripped up Abercrombie jeans and Rainbow flip flops?

Popular trends I’ve spotted in Naples:

• One-piece outfits and jumpsuits

• Harem pants
• Italian women never wear shorts, especially never jean shorts. Shorts are considered beach-wear only. If you see anything above the knee, it might be something like this:
• Sunglasses are an important accessory…I’ve found that both the ‘aviator’ and ‘way-farer’ style by Ray Ban are still most popular

• Shoes
-Lots of wedges and espadrilles


-Hogan shoes are really popular, especially with men, but I can't bring myself to like them! To me they look like New Balance knock-offs, and I've never been a fan of New Balance...

-Absolutely no flip flops (considered beach wear only) or gym/running sneakers (exercise only). Even stilettos aren’t that popular…I actually feel kind of out-of-place if I wear my Nine West classic black pumps.

-Other shoes that are really popular: Chuck Taylors or other trendy sneakers like Diesel and colorful Nike high-tops

-Possibly the most popular shoes for women in Italy are boots: leather, suede, flat, high heeled, cowboy, platform…any style and with any outfit, dress, skirt, shorts, pants…. However, UGGS are not popular in Italy at all! I don’t think I can live without my UGGS in the winter so I’ll just have to deal with sticking out!

• To me, one of the best accessories EVER is a stylish moped helmet slung on your arm!


• Other accessories: Louis Vuitton purses and belts are still very popular. Alviero Martini is huge right now, especially in Naples, and everyone seems to own a piece from this collection…I’m sure most are knock-offs. Rosa has a really nice Alviero Martini watch. I’ve seen purses, watches, belts, even shoes by him. The purse below runs for about $500.

• Color coordination seems to be very popular. One day I saw a woman wearing dark purple jeans with a light purple top and a purple jacket. Same goes for red, green, any color of the rainbow.

Typical outfits I always see when out and about:

Typical outfit #1: A short-sleeved button up shirt, tucked into skinny jeans, a nice belt, and a pair of wedges or boots.

Typical outfit #2: Knee-length flowy dress or skirt, cute top, saggy belt, and boots or wedges.

Typical outfit #3: T-shirt featuring Hello Kitty or Paul Frank or some other image, tucked into skinny jeans, and Chuck Taylors or some other sneakers.

Now...You sing in heaven

I feel kind of special that in 50 years when people say “Man, remember when Michael Jackson died?”, I can say “Oh yea! I was nannying in Italy then…” It’s one of those things like, where were you when the first man walked on the moon? Or, where were you when you found out JFK was assassinated? Well, I was living and working in Italy when Michael Jackson died, and it was extremely interesting to get the international perspective on it.

I was reading the news online before bed, actually reading about the death of Farrah Fawcett, and right before shutting off my computer I refreshed my homepage to see if there were any new headlines. There was: Michael Jackson was being taken to the hospital for something or the other. I admit I rolled my eyes, thinking, “there’s always something with that guy”…and off I went to sleep. The next morning I logged back online and there it was: MICHAEL JACKSON, DEAD. I went into the living room where Rosa, Bruno, the girls, Bruno’s mom, and the house keeper were all chatting. I asked them if they knew Michael Jackson (stupid question, of course they knew him) and I shared the news. Rosa was completely devastated! She started going on and on about how her and her girlfriends used to listen to MJ so much in high school, his music reminds her of her youth, etc. etc. The housekeeper just kept saying “mamma mia…e’ morto…mamma mia.”

For the next couple of days it was all over the news and that was all anyone talked about. We even got to watch the funeral, streamed live from LA straight into our living room in Naples. For weeks after that, I would see t-shirts in store windows remembering Michael, every car that drove by was blasting Michael, every bar and restaurant was playing Michael. Additionally, the next three books I read mentioned Michael Jackson (even just briefly) and it made me think, he really is synonymous with America, just like baseball and apple pie. His name is one that can be said in any situation and everyone will know exactly what you are talking about – like in the three books I read. When my cousin came to visit me, 2 times in a row we were in a cab and the driver realized we were American and immediately put in a Michael Jackson CD. We would ask everyone what their favorite Michael song was and the answer was always ‘triller’ (Italians have such a hard time making the ‘th’ sound – so it’s just ‘triller’). There was also so much in the news about how people across the globe actually learned to speak English through listening to MJ’s music.

Read more about MJ and Italia here


Look closely! Underneath 'Bye Michael' it says 'now..you sing in heaven.' Shirt in a store window in Piazza Dante.

Learning to Change...

When I brought Chiara to school this morning, I saw something that has provoked a lot of thought as I’ve been doing things around the house today. A classroom down the hall from hers is doing a big project, and they have pictures and drawings hanging on the walls outside of their classroom to show everybody. Guess what the project is? Making wine! Now, you might not think it’s such a big deal, but think again. First of all, these kids are 3, 4, and 5 years old. Second of all, this is a private Catholic school. And the kids are making wine in class! How awesome is that! I think it’s awesome because wine is such a huge part of the Italian culture. People use it in cooking, as a drink to compliment their dinner, as a drink to compliment their dessert, everything. When a teen is offered their first taste of wine at a special occasion, it’s kind of like a right-of-passage. But in America, wine – or any alcohol – is seen completely differently. By religious fanatics it’s viewed as a sin and they don’t understand why Catholics drink wine in church. For teenagers it’s the forbidden fruit that they can't wait to get their hand on. And for college kids and beyond, it’s a vehicle that leads only to drunkenness and bad decisions.

Could you imagine the uproar if the kindergarteners at your local elementary school started making wine as a class project? I mean, if parents and educators were flipping out about the president of our country merely talking to students about the important of education, imagine what they would say about wine. It makes me think a lot about the differences in the Italian versus the American culture and lifestyle. So, I wanted to share with you all some other cultural differences I’ve noticed in the past few months. It’s rather interesting!

The first, and my least favorite, is that air conditioning is virtually non-existent. Buildings and homes in Italy are extremely old; definitely built long before air conditioning was even invented. It would be impossible to install an AC system and vents and all that good stuff. It is possible to get an AC unit that you can attach to a wall, but they are very expensive and cause your electric bill to sky-rocket. Anyways, the buildings being as old as they are, they were built with stone and brick and other materials that give them the ability to stay pretty cool in the hottest of temperatures. However, on the flip side, I’ve never been in a car in Italy that had the air conditioning turned on. You would think since its sweltering hot outside, and it’s not like they have to pay a ‘bill’ for how much AC they use in a car, that they would use it all the time. Right? Nope! If you’re lucky, the window may be cracked a bit. I think this all goes back to an old wives tale of the Colpo d’aria, or the fear that a gust of cool air in the middle of summer will make you sick.

Another odd difference is that all of the refrigerators in Italy are really small. Most food products in Italy, including wine, have no preservatives in them, so there is literally no such thing as ‘stocking the fridge for the week.’ Most Italians go out every morning, or at least every other morning, to buy fresh milk, fresh bread, fresh meat and other things that they will need for just that day. Doing a huge grocery shopping every couple of weeks is literally unheard of. I kind of like it better this way, because the products we get are fresh. For example, mozzarella di bufala, is actually controlled by a law and cannot be stored for any longer than 48 hours. So to be sure that the mozzarella you’re buying is fresh, you can look for the ‘DOP’ stamp of approval. How great! To go along with this, all of the supermarkets are really small. This is because you only go to the supermarket for your basic items; then you go to the bakery for your bread, the market for your fruits and veggies, the butcher for your meat, etc.

Something else that I couldn’t help but notice is the dynamics of the Italian family. Most profound is the fact that children live with their parents until they get married. Rosa lived with her mom until literally the day of her wedding, when she was 28. Rosa has a younger sister, Mary, who is 26 years old, finished with school, has a career as a dentist, has bought herself a beautiful car, and she still lives at home with her mom! Her mom still packs her lunch every day! This concept is just so hard for me to grasp because I’ve been on my own for the past 4 years and I’m only 22. I love my parents to death but if I had to live with them until I got married, I might marry the next guy I see just to get the hell out of their house! Same for Mario, the guy I met in Gaeta. He’s even older than Mary, has a career as well, and lives at home with his parents. He keeps asking me when I’m going to come visit him in Caserta, and all I can think is “And, what? Sleep on your parent’s couch and have un caffé with them in the morning?!”

The lists of differences can go on and on forever. No screens on the windows, no ice in drinks, a bidet in every bathroom, washing machines but no dryers, month-long vacations, folk dances and songs, and more. Most have a long explanation behind them, as do all things in Italy. Italy is a country full of culture and tradition that dates back years and years and years.

Read more about Italian traditions and customs here!

Pondering...

I was talking to an old high school friend the other day, and congratulated him on his recent marriage. We talked about married life for a bit, and then, came the inevitable: the question I am almost always asked. “Aren’t you married or engaged yet? Why not?”

It baffles me that, first of all, people feel so comfortable as to pry into your private life like that. I could be gay and unable to get married for all they know. Or I could have plans to join a convent, dedicate my life to God, and never get married. Maybe I just went through a horrible break up and I am anti-men for the time being. Or maaaaaybe, possibly, perhaps, perchance, I dare say.…I am way too YOUNG and don’t WANT to be married! I just turned 22 years old, and I just graduated college. I’m not done doing all the fun things that people in their 20’s do! I want to sleep in late and party all night and maybe kiss a cute guy I meet at a bar! Or do whatever I want without having to fill someone in on my whereabouts! Why, at my age, do I want to ‘play house’ and have dinner on the table at 6 for when my husband walks through the door, briefcase in hand? Yes, of course, I would like to do that SOMEday…but today is not the day. Yes of course I want a beautiful house and a few children and a good 9-5 job and a nice big SUV for soccer games on the weekends….just not yet. It’s so odd to think that the two girls I nanny for are actually younger than the children of some of my old classmates. Vittoria and Chiara could, theoretically, be MY daughters. That thought freaks me out and that’s why I’m not ready for marriage and children yet!

In addition to that, I always wonder about married couples who were 'high-school sweethearts'. Couples who dated all through high school (or even before), all through college and after, and eventually got married. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with this, as this is the situation with my own brother and his wife. But couples like this, who say they are with their 'soul-mate'....how do they know this person is their soulmate, if this is the only person they've ever been with? They've never left the town that they grew up in, never got the chance to meet other people, and now they are married to their 'soulmate'...as if they have searched the world twice over to find them. I just don't get it.

Think about it. Most people live to be about 85, 90, even 100 years old these days. That means if you get married even as late as 35, you still have 50 PLUS years with this person! What is the rush!? So many people I went to high school with have started having children, or have gotten married, or both! If that’s what they truly want and they are truly happy with their life, well, I am happy for them. I just can’t do it yet. There are so many things I want to do…so many things I want to see. There are too many opportunities in the world for me to push them aside for a walk down the aisle and a baby registry at Target. I know this may sound preachy, or cliché, but the world is literally at everyone’s fingertips…so why not grab it! I know it’s expensive to travel, and I don’t come from the wealthiest of families, but I’ve been able to manage. And now that I’ve spent some time in Europe, I’ve realized just how easy it is to travel. And it’s so addicting!

Take author Elizabeth Gilbert, for example. You may have heard of a little book she wrote: “Eat, Pray, Love”, that is being turned into a major-motion picture starring Julia Roberts and part of it is being filmed in Naples, right now, as I type this. On Gilbert’s website, she talks of the days when she would literally travel the world on a waitress’s paycheck. She would work her ass off, picking up every single shift she could, and in 6 months time she would have enough money to travel wherever she wanted for a couple of weeks. Yea, she gave up having things like nice clothes and a nice car, but it’s all about what’s more important to you. My point is this: traveling is not such a far-fetched idea. Anyone can get a passport, anyone can save up and buy a plane ticket, anyone can book a hotel room. A week in Rome is not just a dream – it’s a reality. It can be anybody’s reality.

I know all of this has nothing to do with me sharing my life as a nanny with you. But, in a roundabout way, it has absolutely everything to do with it. If I had done what most girls I graduated with did...who knows where I'd be. I probably would have had a baby right out of highschool (or even while in highschool.) I might be married. I would have never gone to a University, thus never getting the chance to study abroad, thus never finding out about the chances of being an Au Pair in Europe. It scares me to think I may have never gotten these oppurtunities! Without rambling too much I just want to conclude by saying a few things. First of all, if you have started having children or have gotten married at a young age, I’m not dissing you. I’m truly happy for you if you are happy for yourself. That’s just not the life for me – not right now, anyways. So when people say to me, “But you’re such a pretty girl, how could you be single!?” I just let them know that it is my CHOICE to be like this, that this is the lifestyle I have chosen, and that being a free spirit and being independent and traveling and writing and meeting people from all over the world and learning a new language is the most important thing in my life right now. The house with the picket fence and the babies and the mortgage and all that fun stuff can come later. Much, much later.

Buona Giornata!

Filling you all in on the past 3 months!

The morning of Wednesday, May 20th, I said goodbye to everything I know and got on a plane, heading to Naples, Italy, to live for one year. It was one of the most exciting and exhilarating feelings I’ve ever experienced, but at the same time, very nerve-racking. I was absolutely thrilled to be returning to the country I fell in love with exactly one year earlier, when I spent a month studying in Florence. But I was second-guessing myself for giving up so much. First and foremost, I had to say goodbye to my family, friends, and (then) boyfriend for a year. That might be easy for a lot of people, but I am extremely family-oriented, and thrive off of my friends, so it was really difficult for me to do. Secondly, I gave up my cute little apartment that I adored so much, I gave up my fun job at a sports bar (and possible promotion to bartender), and we put my beloved “Goldie” (my car) up for sale. I had to kiss goodbye my dear cat, Cooper, who had been a great companion for the past 2 years and, to me, symbolized me gaining independence. But hardest of all, I was giving up a year of my youth. I had just graduated college, and just turned 22 two days beforehand. No more lying on the couch and watching TV all day. No more all-night bar hopping and after-parties at my apartment. No more wasted days at the beach, sleeping in, road trips, lunches out, dinners out. No more irresponsibility. I was literally about to become the mother of two precious little Italian girls, and I knew my life would never be the same.

I arrived in Naples the morning of May 21st, after 24 hours of traveling. After retrieving my luggage, I searched for Rosa in the crowd. I knew what she looked like from pictures and from when we would chat on web-cam and spotted her right away. We rushed to each other, and I immediately tried to hug her, but she tried kissing me on both cheeks, and it was kind of an awkward moment (way to go Liz!) but we brushed it off and started heading towards the exit. How relieved I was to be with Rosa! We had spent months corresponding and I was so happy to finally be with her in person. She helped me with my luggage as we stepped out into – brace yourself – the extreme heat, strong sunshine, pollution, and absolute chaos of Napoli. Forget looking both ways before you cross the road – you just have to go! Or else you will never get across. “Don’t worry, they won’t hit you!” reassured Rosa of the oncoming traffic as she led the way to her tiny little Ford. Finally we were in the car and on the way to the house. It was sweltering, and I instantly remembered how anti-AC Italians are. I dared crack the window a bit for some fresh air as I clutched the sides of my seat, feeling like I was on the most intense ride at Kings Dominion. Naples is notorious for its traffic. It’s the one place in Europe, or possibly the whole world, where all social order breaks down and it’s every man for himself. Lights and signs are ignored; people double- and triple-park, there is literally no speed limit, and the carabinieri are a bit preoccupied to care. It’s insane, but kind of fun!

When we arrived to the house, I immediately recognized the area from the hours I spent on Google Earth before I left. I got to meet Rosa’s mom and 2-year-old Vittoria right away; 3-year-old Chiara was at school and the dad, Bruno, was at work. Rosa’s mom fixed me the most delicious plate of spaghetti I’ve probably ever had; I gulfed it down and took the most amazing nap. Hours later I was woken up by both Chiara and Vittoria (probably curious to check out ‘the new nanny!’). Rosa told me that for weeks they had been asking “When is the girl in the computer coming!?” referring to when I would talk to them on web-cam. I took a bit of time to familiarize myself with the apartment, and just couldn’t get over their beautiful terrace and the amazing view they have. They live in Capodimonte, which is a neighborhood of Naples that is up in the hills. From their terrace you can see almost all of Naples, including the sea and even the island of Capri, which is right off the coast. After a while we got in the car to go buy regalia, a present, for Rosa’s baby niece who was getting baptized that Sunday. Later on, we went to the park with the girls. The park also provided a great view of Naples as well as Mount Vesuvius in the distance. That evening I unpacked my belongings and got settled into what would be my new home for the next year. I took a long hot shower and have to admit that I cried myself to sleep that night, thinking, how can I do this? How can I sleep in this tiny bed, in the same bedroom as a 3-year-old? How can I ever overcome the language barrier? How can I survive without all the comforts of home?

The next few weeks were a complete whirlwind. I was getting into a routine with the girls, meeting both Rosa’s and Bruno’s sides of the family, learning to cook for the girls (pasta sauce from a jar? Never! Always fresh tomatoes or beans or other vegetables), adjusting to the food (I told them I love seafood, but I never meant octopus!) and just adjusting to the lifestyle in general. One weekend we went to Sorrento for a little get-away. Sorrento is absolutely charming. Another weekend I worked up some courage and went to Capri on my own. I should have done a little research before I went, because once I got there, I had no clue what to do! I just walked around the main piazza, sat on the beach for a bit, then headed back home. The week of June 13-20 we spent at the Cavallino Bianco, which is a family-oriented resort in the northern-most part of Italy, a small town called Ortisei. The town was beautiful, quiet, and quaint, with a strong Austrian influence, as it was right on the border. The resort itself was perfect – the girls were occupied all day while Rosa and I got to take advantage of the amazing spa, pool, and other amenities. One day that week we took an hour drive to Innsbruck, Austria. I was ecstatic to be going to Austria (as anyone knows I am a closet-nerd about my favorite movie of all time, The Sound of Music!) We walked around and explored all day, had a wonderful lunch, and Bruno and I had a few beers. Another day we drove about 30 minutes away to nearby Bolzano, another quaint little Italian town. Our week at the Cavallino Biano was a great getaway that recharged us for weeks to come. Back in Naples I was getting more and more familiar with the area that the family lives in, although I did get lost on the buses once. I was slowly getting over my homesickness, but was terribly upset to miss the homecoming of my older brother from Iraq. Additionally, things with my (then) boyfriend were starting to fall apart, and we ended up breaking up, something that I denied would ever happen when I left for Italy but maybe deep-down I knew it could never work. After the week in Ortisei I started getting ‘that feeling’ again…the same feeling I had gotten in Florence the summer before. The feeling that I don’t need anything or anyone, that I’m a free spirit and all I want to do is travel the world, and the fact that there is so much more to life than the Wilmington Mall and Wrightsville Beach. Of course I missed my family and friends, but I was beginning to not care at all about Wilmington itself.

At the end of July, with perfect timing, my cousin Cara flew to Rome and took a train to meet me in Naples. I was so excited to see not only another American, but a member of my own family! And to actually be able to have a conversation with someone! Rosa is the only person that speaks English and therefore the only person I can talk to here. You’d be surprised how lonely it gets in a room full of people when you don’t speak their language. I think Cara and I talked nonstop for the entire time she was in Italy. I showed her around Naples that first day, and then we were off to Rome for a fun-filled week. Cara lived in Rome for 4 months, so she knew her way around perfectly, and was so happy to reunite with old friends there. She introduced me to all of them, and it became a comfort to know that I now had some friends in Rome, only an hour’s train-ride away. We slept in late, shopped all day, and went out every night. We spent way too much money but we laughed a lot and had an amazing time. We even tried to convince her dad (my Uncle Rob) to let her stay a couple of more days, but it was a bit too expensive to switch flights. At the end of the week it was really difficult for me to return to Naples. Being in Rome made me develop a love/hate relationship with ‘Bella Napoli.’ It made me hate Naples for being so disgustingly dirty, for having so many problems with traffic and crime, for not being touristy at all and for nobody speaking English, for not being an international city like Rome, where I met people my age from all over the world. It made me hate Naples for having an impossible public transportation system and for not having an American university and floods of college kids every summer and pub crawls on weekends. But being in Rome for a week made me absolutely love Naples, for all of the same reasons. It made me realize that Naples is the REAL Italy. It’s dirty, its chaotic, it’s in your face, but it is THE lifestyle. There are no bilingual tour guides to sugar-coat everything. There’s no piazza full of pubs attracting college kids from across the globe. But there’s laundry hanging off every balcony, there’s delicious food if you give it a chance, there’s lots of history if you take the time to dig it up. It’s the dirty, gritty, Italy-isn’t-as-it-seems-on-TV part of the country. And I love it for that.

One week after I returned from Rome, I was packing my suitcase again and we were off to Gaeta for the entire month of August. Italians, as pretty much all Europeans, take their vacationing very seriously. Everything closes and everyone goes ‘on holiday to the sea’ for August. Rosa and Bruno rented a great apartment only a couple blocks from the beautiful sea in Gaeta. We spent the whole month laying on the beach all day, eating wonderful meals cooked by Rosa’s mom and in restaurants, and living a relaxing life. In the evening we would bring the girls to an outdoor puppet show featuring ‘Pulcinella’, a traditional Neapolitan character. Rosa has a sister my age, Mary, who stayed with us in Gaeta for a week and was a great friend to me during that time. She is familiar with the area and we went out every night and met a lot of people. One night we met a group of really fun guys, and with one of them I exchanged phone numbers so we could hang out in the weeks to come when Mary wouldn’t be there anymore. I ended up having a great time with him. Mario. He would come pick me up on his little Vespa and we would ride around Gaeta all night. One night he cooked me dinner; one day we met up on the beach. He’s from Caserta, a little town near Naples, and between his bit of English and my bit of Italian we were able to carry along just fine. Sometimes I questioned his sexuality when we were out with his friends, as he would put his arm around one of the guys and play with his earlobe or ruffle his hair, but I had to keep in mind that Italian men are just touchy like that, whether it be with a girl or another guy. Mario and his friends were constantly asking me, “but why, if we go in America, we kiss on both cheeks and they call us gay!? Or 3 men on one Vespa and they call us gay!?” It was hilarious, and sad but true. How do you translate the words ‘shallow’ or ‘lame’ or ‘un-cultured’ to Italian? Our holiday sadly came to an end the last day of August. Although we had a great time, I was ready to get back home and back to ‘my’ bed and ‘my’ shower. I was ready to go to the grocery store every few days and see the same smiling employees, eager to 'help the American girl'. I was excited for Vittoria and Chiara to start school, so I could have the mornings to myself. I was excited to get on a bit of a diet, to work even harder on my Italian, to plan some weekend trips. But even more than that, I was excited for our upcoming Mediterranean Cruise, and 2 weeks after that, a visit from my parents!

TODAY
To my great disappointment, the cruise has been cancelled. Apparently the last time the ship went out, four passengers ended up getting the swine flu. The ship is in medical quarantine – can you imagine all the employees, every single morsel of food, needing to be screened? Of course I don’t want to catch this flu, but I was so looking forward to the cruise. I have never been on one before, and this one was supposed to be extra special. We were going to Sicily, Tunisia, Spain, and France. The ship itself is amazing, brand new, unveiled by Sophia Loren herself in a special ceremony in the bay of Naples in December 2008. Rosa says we might look into another cruise for December or March. They don’t like to go too long without leaving town for at least a weekend, so I know we’ll be heading on another trip soon. However….my parents will be here in 3 weeks! I have never been more excited for something in my entire life. They are flying into Rome where I will take the train and meet them and we will spend a couple of days. Then, we are heading to Florence, the city of my dreams, for a few days. Our last stop is Naples, where they will get to see where I live and meet everyone, and they will be here just in time for Rosa’s sister’s birthday, so they will get to experience a true Italian festa!

My love/hate relationship with Naples continues. Some days I wake up and dread facing the day, the language barrier, the garbage, the poverty. As much as I love the girls, sometimes it’s hard to keep them entertained all day. Then I will be in the middle of doing something extremely trivial, like shaving my legs, and all of a sudden I will think... “Am I really in Italy!? Am I really doing this!?” And it’s moments like those that keep me going. Just to think, that no matter how hard it gets, it’s only one year out of my entire life. When I’m 50 I can look back on this time and think of how great an experience it was. In the mornings when I come back from my jog and I’m stretching on the terrace, I have to pinch myself to believe that I’m really looking out onto the bay of Naples and the island of Capri. That I'm really 'a nanny in Italy'. Some days I even surprise myself when my mouth opens and a flow of Italian words naturally comes out. It is an absolutely amazing experience to be having, and through the ups and downs of it all I wouldn’t trade it for anything. As cliché as it may sound, life is truly beautiful. La vita e’ bella!

Buona notte!